Arc Audio System Configurator
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ARC Audio — Pro Tips (tap to expand)
› Picking AS (Good) vs RS (Best)
AS Series Great Value
- Forgiving voicing; easy to place and tune in most cars.
- Pairs well with X2, BlackBird, or NightHawk amps.
- Perfect for daily drivers and budget-first builds.
RS Series Reference
- Higher resolution and dynamics for a true front-row stage.
- Loves more amplifier control (Cu or ARC 1000 stacks).
- Best for listeners who prioritize sound quality above all.
› 2-Way vs 3-Way — which should I choose?
Why 3-Way often wins
- Dedicated midrange (~250 Hz–2.5 kHz) carries vocals so tweeter & midbass aren’t stretched.
- Lower distortion, better off-axis response, and more precise imaging.
- Lets the sub cross lower and stay invisible.
When 2-Way is enough
- Tighter budgets or limited space for a 3″ mid.
- Quality 6.5″ + tweeter crossed ~2–3 kHz can sound fantastic.
- Quicker install and tuning for daily driving.
› Amp classes at a glance (A/B, D, G/H)
Class A/B
- Classic, smooth presentation—great for mids/highs.
- Usually larger and runs warmer; think Cu Series.
Class D
- Very efficient & compact—awesome for subs and multi-channel.
- Modern designs (e.g., X2, ARC 1000) sound excellent when tuned well.
Class G/H
- Rail-switching for A/B-like sound with better efficiency.
- Great when you want control without a huge footprint.
› Subs, loads & wiring
10″ vs 12″
- 10″: tight & punchy; sealed ~0.6–0.8 ft³.
- 12″: more output; sealed ~1.0–1.25 ft³ or ported ~33–35 Hz.
Impedance tips
- Match coil config to the amp: e.g., X2 1100.1 is happiest at 1–2 Ω.
- Dual-4 Ω pair → 1 Ω or 4 Ω; Dual-2 Ω pair → 2 Ω or 8 Ω.
› Install & tuning tips
Front stage first
- Deadening + sealed/baffled midbass makes or breaks the system.
- Keep rear fill subtle (−12 to −20 dB) and delayed.
DSP basics
- Time-align midbass to sub; verify phase around the x-over.
- High-pass front ~70–80 Hz (2-way) or ~60–70 Hz (3-way) as a start.